My family and I embarked on a whirlwind overnight adventure through the heart of Tuscany. We traded the busy streets of Rome for the rolling hills, ancient ruins, thermal springs, and mouthwatering cuisine of central Italy. In just 24 hours, our journey took us from picking up a slightly battle-scarred rental car at Tiburtina Station in Rome, through hidden gems like the “dying city” of Civita Di Bagnoregio and Saturnia’s healing thermal springs, to a delightful dinner and overnight stay near the UNESCO-listed town of Pienza before finally rolling into Florence. Read on for the key details, time estimates, costs, and tips from our unforgettable trip.
9am: Rome & Tiburtina Station
What We Did:
Our adventure started at Rome’s Tiburtina Station where I collected our rental car. (Fair warning: the cars weren’t pristine—mine had more than a few scratches—and my nerves were already on edge about driving out of Rome’s congested center.)
Key Details:
- Rental Car Pickup: Tiburtina Station, Rome
- Travel Tip: Inspect your rental and check your contract – we were covered for any minor scratches and bumps and our car already had a bit of “character”
- Driving Time: Although a direct drive from Rome to Florence takes about three hours, our stops made this a two-day, action-packed journey.
11am: Civita Di BagnoRegio – The “Dying City” with a Captivating Charm
Overview:
Our first major stop was in Civita Di Bagnoregio—a strangely enchanting town known locally as the “dying city” because erosion has forced most residents to move to the outskirts. With only about 13 residents (and a surprising number of cats roaming around), the city’s haunting beauty and quirky history made for a memorable introduction to rural Tuscany.
What to Expect:
- Parking & Walk: We parked outside the town and then embarked on a 20‑minute walk. At the foot of a pedestrian bridge, a small ticket office offered entry for around 5 euros.
- Facilities: A public restroom (costing just a couple of euros) was available at the edge of the city
- Attractions:
- A scenic uphill stroll with plenty of spots to sit and take in the view (perfect for a quick rest out of the sun).
- A lively courtyard featuring local restaurants and fish shops that make a good pit stop if you have an extra half hour.
- A “secret garden” tucked away behind the city. Although it wasn’t exactly secret—more like a busy oasis—it featured a charming upstairs area with a great photo spot. Downstairs, a small shop sold spices, homemade pasta, and even fresh fruit, a favorite among visitors.
Recommended Time:
Spend about 1–2 hours here to soak in the history, enjoy the panoramic views, and grab a quick bite (we opted for takeaway pork sandwiches before moving on).
3pm: Saturnia – Nature’s Healing Spa
Overview:
Leaving Civita Di Bagnoregio behind, we set off for Saturnia—a drive that took just over an hour through scenic Tuscan backroads. Saturnia is famous for its natural thermal springs, a must-visit for anyone looking to unwind in mineral-rich, rejuvenating waters.
Highlights & Tips:
- The Thermal Springs: Our visit included Cascata del Mulino, a series of free thermal pools open 24/7 as well as Terme Di Saturnia Thermal Park, a paid entry to the locals hot springs.
- Origin of the Thermal Springs: Legend has it that a divine clash between Jupiter and Satuen once gave birth to these cascading rock formations.
- Potential health benefits: The water, having been filtered underground for about 40 years, is packed with minerals beneficial for the skin, respiratory system, and muscles.
- Essential Tips:
- Parking: Remember to pay for parking at the Cascate Del Mulino car park.
- Footwear: Bring water shoes—the rocks can be sharp!
- Swimwear: Don’t forget your swimsuit, as the experience is best enjoyed soaked.
- Cost Considerations: Cascata del Mulino is free (aside from parking), but if you prefer a more structured experience, the nearby Terme di Saturnia offers a water park atmosphere with jets and extra amenities (this option comes with an entrance fee ~$100pp).
- A Quirky Note: Be prepared for the water to be “egg-like” due to its sulphur content—an odd but harmless side effect that can be a challenge to rinse out!
Recommended Time:
Plan for a 1–2 hour visit for each spring to truly relax in the healing waters. (Just watch out for the occasional mosquito larvae—a natural quirk of these springs!)
7:30pm Dinner in Pienza
Dining Experience at Idyllium:
- Location & Views: The restaurant sits on the edge of Pienza, overlooking the stunning Val d’Orcia.
- Cuisine: Enjoy locally sourced Tuscan dishes featuring creative cocktails (one even came with a pepper you’d nibble mid-drink to change the flavor profile!) and a truffle pasta that was so good we almost ordered seconds despite being full.
- Must get: Truffle pasta
- Time: Expect to spend about 1.5–2 hours here if you want to leisurely eat your meal.
Overnight: L’Olmo – Stay at an Aguriturismo
We checked into a charming, nearby aguriturismo (a mere 15‑minute drive from the restaurant) with separate bedrooms and a warm, intimate atmosphere.
The next morning greeted us with postcard-perfect Tuscan landscapes and a relaxed breakfast in a sunlit dining room. After breakfast, we wandered the hotel grounds, played a round of pool, and even discovered fruit trees growing by the poolside—a delightful bonus that made leaving a little hard.
10:36am Cypress trees in Val D’Orcia
You haven’t seen Tuscany if you didn’t stop to take a photoshoot with the rows of cypress trees in Val D’Orcia. These trees are planted to line areas of significance and are almost definitely older than you!
We stopped to take photos at Poggio Civili which is an Aguriturismo. It was fairly busy and I recommend respecting the privacy sign and not walking down the driveway unless you are a guest.
11:48am Pienza – Ideal Renaissance Town
Pienza isn’t just famous for its cheese; this small town is also a UNESCO heritage site built around a grand central courtyard and is said to be built as the ideal renaissance town by Pope Pius II.
After our restful night, we spent a few hours exploring Pienza’s charming streets:
- Historic Streets & Shops: Wander along Via dell’amore, Via della Fortuna, Via del Bacio, and Via della Hall, and the corso where you’ll find a mix of souvenir shops, local delicacies, and even a quirky leather boutique run by the longtime duo Valerio Trufelli and his wife. (I ended up buying a notebook from here where I keep all my travel stories!)
- Takeaway lunch: Before our next stop, we picked up pork sandwiches and grabbed a gelato with interesting flavours like “blueberry cheesecake” and “lemon lavender.”
2:54pm Tuscan Wineries
Impromptu Wine stop:
When we saw this extremely long row of Cypress trees we knew we were going to drive up it, and we weren’t 100% sure what was on the other side! Suprise! A winery. I guess we’d better stop and sip a while. The wine was okay but the view was fantastic.
A Brief Winery Stop – “Poggio Amorelli”:
Our final detour was to a small family-run winery. Tucked away along a row of secret streets, this spot offered a quick glass of wine amid picturesque scenery. A word of caution: delays here made us miss our rental car return deadline but it was worth it!
5pm Driving into Florence
The Rush:
After our winery visit (and a few wrong turns along narrow, tree-lined roads), we found ourselves racing against time. In a moment of procrastination and chaotic fun, we ended up driving into Florence during peak rush hour. Although the drive was a bit hectic, the experience was a wild and thrilling conclusion to our overnight Tuscan escapade.
Final Thoughts:
Despite the logistical hiccups and unexpected delays, the road trip was everything we hoped for—a vibrant mix of scenic drives, historical sites, natural wonders, and delightful culinary experiences. It reminded us that sometimes a little chaos is just part of the adventure, and in Tuscany, every unexpected turn leads to a new story worth telling.
If you’re considering your own overnight road trip from Rome to Florence, here are a few takeaways:
- Plan your stops: Allocate at least 1–2 hours each for key attractions like Civita Di Bagnoregio and Saturnia.
- Budget a few extras: Factor in small entry fees (about 5 euros for Civita Di Bagnoregi’s ticket, plus minor costs like restroom fees and parking).
- Time management: A short detour can turn into an unforgettable memory—but be mindful of your rental car return and overall schedule.
- Pack smart: Water shoes, swimwear, and a sense of adventure are must-haves for this journey.
This unforgettable overnight escape through Tuscany is a reminder that even on a tight schedule, Italy’s landscapes, history, and cuisine have a magical way of capturing your heart. Happy travels!
Feel free to leave comments with your own tips or questions—every shared experience counts!
Ange on a plane 
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