Apurva Kempinski Bali (With Underwater Lunch!)

TL;DR: I stayed one night at The Apurva Kempinski Bali in an Ocean Pool Suite and ate at Koral, the hotel’s famous “underwater” restaurant. The hotel is jaw-droppingly grand, wonderfully quirky, and SO photogenic—but there are a few practical things you’ll want to know before you book.

First Impressions: A Temple on a Cliff

This might just be the grandest lobby I’ve seen – with soaring ceilings, a dramatic gold artwork featuring Balinese wings, and an open layout perched high above the resort. From the bar at the back of the lobby (we were up on Level 10), you can actually look down across the hotel, the pools, and even spot the glass tunnel where Koral Restaurant sits with it’s underwater dining.

The resort is designed like a cascading village of blocks and terraces… which reminds me of Lego. It’s beautiful, but also a tiny bit of a maze. To reach the beach and pool level, you need to walk to either end of the temple to catch the elevators to go all the way down. Plan a little extra time for getting around, especially in the heat.

Check-In at the Cliff Lounge

Because we booked an Cliff Private Pool Ocean Junior Suite, we checked in at the Cliff Lounge (downstairs and imprtantly, air-conditioned). There are private plunge pools here too but I didn’t use them. Staff were kind but strict about camera use in the hotel and asked me to sign a form that I wasn’t using any of the footage for commercial reasons. Here’s the footage:

Our Pool Suite: Ocean From (Almost) Every Corner

Room: Cliff Private Pool Ocean Junior Suite
Rate paid: IDR 13,139,874 (~AUD 1,250) for one night.
Vibe: Modern Balinese textures, polished stone, lots of warm wood, and ocean views that peek through from multiple angles (even a cheeky glimpse from the bathroom).
Snacks: Loads of complimentary snacks, plus traditional sweets and fruit.
Comfort: Beds are on the firm side, but it was still comfortable enough
Note: Monkeys will pop by if you forget to close doors. And bugs. CLOSE THE DOORS.

The Viral Staircase

The Viral Staircase is the hotel’s signature backdrop from poolside. From the top it’s pretty to see the view; from the bottom it’s cinematic. It’s stunning after dark when everything is lit and the pools glow. We did a robe-and-slippers night walk (10/10 would recommend for a laugh and the photos).

Breakfast: A Buffet That Out-Buffets Other Buffets

DON’T SKIP BREAKFAST HERE. Here are the options:

Live stations spanning Indonesian, Indian, and Western classics
A la carte menu
Balinese, Japanese, Chinese, Korean seem to be the most popular cuisines here
Massive dessert and yogurt section – with a great selection of Balinese desserts
Jamu (traditional herbal tonic) – has some suggested health benefits

Koral Restaurant: Bali’s “Underwater” Dinner

A few days later I returned for Koral, the resort’s aquarium-style restaurant set beside the pools.

What we loved

The aquarium tunnel view is magical—fish schooling past, rays cruising by, and occasional shy sharks hugging the edges.
You can order a different set menu each rather than requiring the table to order the same menu.
Food & drinks were genuinely delicious, playful plating, and there’s even a fish ID booklet so you can name your dinner companions (not your dinner).
Fun moment: A diver popped into the tank to wave and take photos with guests – this was so fun we forgot to pose properly for photos.

What to know before you go

Dress code & footwear: They’re serious. I rocked up in the wrong shoes and was loaned a pair on the spot.
Camera policy: No gimbals or vlogging rigs (e.g., DJI) inside. Phones are fine—keep it discreet.
Lighting & temperature: The tunnel can get bright (and occasionally warm). Dress light; avoid reflective screens if you want cleaner footage.

Is it worth it? YES. Book in advance and aim for a time slot with some natural light left for the full effect.

Verdict

The Apurva Kempinski Bali delivers on spectacle: palace-scale architecture, theatrical dining, and postcard views. It’s not your standard beach resort – it’s an art gallery, theme park and hotel all rolled into one. If you’re here for memorable moments (and a little quirk), you’ll leave with a camera roll full of them.

If You’re Planning Your Own Trip

Ideal length: 2–3 nights lets you enjoy the staircase at different times of day, the pools, Koral, and a spa session.
Who will love it: Design lovers, celebration trips, honeymooners, families who want wow-factor.
Who should think twice: Travelers who dislike walking, prefer boutique-small footprints, or need plush-soft beds.